For a refrigerator, you generally shouldn't use a voltage converter at all. A transformer changes voltage but not frequency — a US fridge is built for 60 Hz, and the 50 Hz used across most of the world makes its compressor run hot and give out years early. Rather than sizing a converter, buy a fridge built for 220–240V / 50 Hz.
If you've found a US refrigerator you love — or already own one — send us the make and model and we may be able to source a specialized transformer that adjusts both voltage and frequency, tailored to that exact fridge. Chat with Sam, email, or call and we'll help.
Check your destination's power
Voltage, frequency and the plug on the wall all change depending on where you land. Open your region to see what you're dealing with — and the verdict for a fridge.
Why you can't just use a transformer
US homes run 110–120V at 60 Hz. Most of Africa, the Caribbean, Europe and Asia run 220–240V at 50 Hz. A step-up/step-down transformer fixes the voltage — it takes 220V off the wall and hands your appliance the 110V it expects. What it can't do is change the frequency. The 50 Hz stays 50 Hz.
For a lamp or a charger that doesn't matter. For a refrigerator it matters a lot: the compressor is a motor tuned to spin at 60 Hz. Feed it 50 Hz and it fights the wrong timing all day — it runs about 20% harder, gets hotter, and wears out. It'll run for a while. Then one day it won't.
You can run it on a transformer — it just shortens the fridge's life. A unit that would last 10–15 years might give you 4–5 on the wrong frequency. If that trade-off is fine, the sizing below works. If you'd rather it just work, ask us about a specialized voltage-and-frequency transformer for your exact model.
Pick the style that fits your kitchen
Every fridge below is built for 220–240V / 50 Hz from the factory — no converter needed. Start with the shape that fits your space.
If you already own a US fridge — what size converter?
Here's the honest fallback. A transformer can run your US fridge — it just shortens its life (roughly halves it). If you're okay with that, size to the compressor's start-up surge, not its running watts. Prefer it to actually last? Ask us about a specialized voltage-and-frequency unit for your model.
| Fridge type | Running watts | Start-up surge | Transformer size |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mini / bar fridge | 150–200 W | 500–750 W | 1,500 W |
| Top-freezer / bottom-freezer | 500–1,000 W | 1,500–2,000 W | 2,000–3,000 W |
| Large US — French door / side-by-side | ~750 W | 1,500–2,000 W | ~5,000 W |
Remember: the frequency problem doesn't go away. A standard transformer still can't turn 50 Hz into 60 Hz, so the compressor keeps working against the wrong timing and still wears out early. If you want something that assists with both frequency and voltage, contact us with the make and model — we can often build a custom solution for your specific fridge.
Send the make and model and we'll recommend the exact transformer — or a custom voltage-and-frequency unit if you want it to last.
Should you just buy one when you land?
Sometimes, yes — and we'll tell you when. In a big city with established appliance stores, buying locally can be simple. But one thing to know: refrigerators in many countries are much smaller and different from what you're used to in the US. That's a big reason a lot of our customers buy a US-style fridge here and ship it, built for their destination's power, before they go. If you want the American brand, size and style you know, that's the gap we fill — with support in English.
A word on warranty
Most of our refrigerators carry a one-year parts warranty. Note that this covers the part itself — it does not cover labor to install it, or shipping charges. We'll always tell you exactly what's covered for your specific model and destination up front, so there are no surprises later.
Marine, yacht and specialty setups
Not every install is a house. We regularly outfit boats and yachts, and vessels have their own quirks — some run 220V at 60 Hz, space is tight, and you often want full-refrigerator and full-freezer columns side by side rather than one combo unit. If you're fitting out a galley or a specialty space, ask Sam before you buy — the right answer there isn't always the same as for a home kitchen.
Frequently asked questions
What size converter do I need for a refrigerator?
Ideally none — for a fridge we recommend buying a 220V/50 Hz unit rather than converting a US one, because a transformer can't fix the 50 vs 60 Hz difference. If you already own a US fridge and must run it, size a continuous-duty transformer to the start-up surge: about 1,500 W for a mini, 2,000–3,000 W for a standard top/bottom-freezer, and ~5,000 W for a large French-door or side-by-side. Want it to actually last? Ask us about a specialized voltage-and-frequency unit for your model.
Can I run my US refrigerator overseas on a converter?
You can, but it shortens the fridge's life — a unit built to last 10–15 years might give you 4–5 on the wrong frequency, because a standard transformer changes voltage but not frequency. For a 24/7 appliance we recommend a native 220V/50 Hz fridge, or a specialized voltage-and-frequency transformer matched to your specific model.
I have my heart set on a specific US model — can you help?
Often, yes. Send us the make and model via Chat with Sam, email or phone, and we may be able to source a specialized transformer that adjusts both voltage and frequency, custom to that fridge. These cost more than a standard transformer, but let you keep the exact model you want.
What should I look for on the spec label?
You want a refrigerator whose label reads 220–240V and 50 Hz. That means it's built for overseas power from the factory — no converter, no lifespan penalty. A label reading 110–120V / 60 Hz is a US-market fridge, the one you don't want to ship overseas and run on a converter.